Yellowstone River turned out to be unwadeable so I opted for the Big Horn River near Custer, MT only to find out the fish & game dept put a ban on fishing in anticipation of an expected heatwave. Ugh!
I'm headed home. Miles City tonight, somewhere east of Bismarck, ND tomorrow
spending the night in Walmart's parking lot in Miles City where current temp is 96 degrees at 6:
30 PM. Nice.
I'm in Albert Lea, MN for the night. Long drive today
8/31/22: I'm at a Walmart in Bozeman resupplying. My windshield is now seeing the morning sun as I've begun heading eastward on this trip. I intend to fish the Yellowstone River next which is south of Livingston, MT.
Last 3 mornings have been below freezing with heavy frost and yet, by mid day it's in the high 80s. Stars have been amazing at night as there's been a lot less rain here than in Colorado.
Drove up Rt 191 which has little white crosses here and there, apparently marking where people have died in accidents. Surely, the same highway we took Paula on when she cut her eye in YNP and needed in Bozeman.
8/30/22: spent the day fishing Gallatin River north of Big Sky. Unlike the wide open meadows south of town the north has more canyon with pine trees etc.
Yesterday I caught one fish in the meadows and saw only one rise. My overall rate of catches was low enough to really dampen the fun factor. I told myself that my usual blend of a little knowledge and a lot of persistence would eventually turn in my favor and today was that day.
I stopped at a gorgeous stetch of deep emerald water.
Gallatin River
Caught two medium fish on nymphs then four more on dries including a beefy rainbow about 15 inches.
Moved to another spot and got 3 more on dries.
8/28/22: headed to Big Sky, Montana to fish Gallatin River
Fished Beaver Creek one last time this morning but only caught one tiny cutbow. Broke
Gorgeous little stream but a bit stingy on the number of trout it gave up.
8/27/22. I'm trying spots on the Madison River today and at Beaver Creek again tonight
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| West fork of Madison River. Got a nice rainbow there |
Headed to Montana to try tail waters of Hegben Reservoir and or Madison River. Will provide a more definitive update by days end.
8/26/22: staying at Beaver Creek BLM area near Earthquake Lake. Beautiful stream and nice campsite. Prime grizzly environment.
8/22/22: Headed to Warm River NE of Ashton, ID
8/23/22 staying near Warm River again tonight
Western side of the Tetons will be on full display.
I drove deep into the Targhee NF on a service road that was in top condition...at first. The branch that went the last 6 miles o was neither well traveled nor well maintained. Still, it was very much within the Taco's capabilities until the last quarter mile. The road suddenly plunged sharply downhill with loose rocks and dirt. A rock outcropping stuck out, leaving about a 12 inch cliff to go over - right to the very limit of the truck's clearance. The hill was so steep and loose that backing up was impossible and the road was way to narrow to risk turning around. Perfect time to panic.
Just then a guy came along in an ATV and spotted me as I attempted to go over the outcropping. Given that I was about 30 miles from the nearest paved road, it was sheer luck he happened to come by. At least he could go for help if I got stuck.
I eased forward slowly and made it over the obstacle! The sky now darkened with afternoon thunderstorms on the way. Rain would turn the clay to slick, slippery mess so, I was obliged to immediately turn around at the bottom and try to climb that same hill. As I approached the climb over the outcropping the tires started to spin. I was already in 4 Low, diff-locker was the only option left but that's meant for one wheel spinning which was not my situation.
I hit the breaks and gave the Taco a good talking to about how 4 wheel drive is supposed to be smart enough to deal with poor traction on each wheel but I left out the parts about it being such steep grade with loose dirt and rock. I eased forward again, but the tires spun which caused a slip/slide toward the roads edge with a steep drop-off. Miraculously, the 4WD kicked in and the Taco started forward. I kept the tiny bit of momentum going and slowly clawed my way to the top!
ATV guy stopped by and congratulated me on the climb. Turns out, he was out scouting for grizzlies for the hunting season next week and proceeds to show me trail camera pictures of these beasts right near Bitch Creek. Out of the frying pan and into the fire.
I spent a very nervous right thinking about that as the afternoon thunderstorms got underway. It rained for about 5 hours which was likely to make the roads far more difficult than when I came in.
Next morning sky was battleship gray. Better get any fishing done right away. I packed my fishing and survival gear and set off down the hill - on foot this time. Arrived at the Creek which had turned from gin clear to milky due to the rains. Bummer but wait, that's Jack Pine Creek which flows into Bitch right nearby. Bitch was still clear so I followed it upstream.
Battleship gray sky turned to azure blue. Sun was out, game on! Gorgeous trout water everywhere. This is why I went to all this effort. I caught several small cutties and a nice fat rainbow on my foam caddis. Time beat it outta here before I become grizz bait.
Update: got a decent campsite with about 50 ft of Tin Cup Creek. The creek varies from about 10 to 30 ft wide with a gentle gradient and moderate turbidity. Riparian environment dominates meaning the banks are heavily infused with bushes, Alderson, etc. Cascading Beaver dams created pools but also obstacles.
I spent yesterday "wet Wading" (i.e. no waders) and it was terrific. Water was not terribly cold and I was unencumbered by bulky waders. Extremely difficult casting due to many overhanging branches. Eventually, I figured out some roll casting and control of back cast to make it enjoyable.
Got a dozen strikes from tiny trout but only one of them actually took the fly. worked one nice pool, changing flies several times without any hits. Still, it just looked too good not to have a fish in it. Loaded up a yellow foam caddis I tied myself and BAM! 8 in cuttie with firey red markings. Very nice fish in a stream that size.
The Pool: 3-4 ft deep, bend. 30 ft long. As I approached, a 15-26 inch trout rocketed out of the pool, taking cover under some bushes at the edge, stirring up sediment as he did so. Big fish. Try as I might, he would not be tempted by my offerings and it turned out the pool was impossible to cast more than halfway into. No takers. Wished it had turned out differently.
Several times on this trip I've had mice get into the camper at night and persistently gnaw and scratch at food stuffs. They frighten easily but soon return for another go. Havoc on trying to sleep let alone the damage.
Since the winter and this trip rodents have an impressive list
Screen window on Habitat
Fishing vest pockets
Collapsible sink
Oreos in cabinets
Gregory backpack pouch
I'll try some DCon treats on them but traps are likely to catch my toes.
8/18/22: The long, climbing drive from desert basin of Montrose to Grand Mesa seemed ordinary but the scenery was much like that of the wilds of Maine or Canada. Evergreens and a plethora of lakes and ponds. At 10K ft that explains the radical change in flora from Montrose.
I followed some very rough FS roads hoping to get a dispersed campsite near one of the ponds. Not. Very few sites.
I settled on one in a grove of aspen just as a thunderstorm rolled in. Clouds of mosquitoes greeted me as did lots of litter. Nearly all of the dispersed sites I've had were clean as a whistle but not this one. Beer cans, wrappers, kids plastic toys etc. It was also very evident that it was a favorite of cattle as there were dozens and dozens of cowpies everywhere. The bugs didn't bite much which I was grateful for.
The next morning was clear and dry and I took full advantage to finish drying out my laundry and to clean up and reorganize things.
Looking down at the bottom of clouds only happens at high altitudes.
At Grand Mesa both Google Maps and GAIA.COM behaved erratically freezing numerous times. When trying to leave GM, Google sent me off the north side instead of South.
I'm going to head to the Flaming Gorge area today. Will send an update before days end.
campsite streamside
Rained the rest of the afternoon but at dusk it stopped and I tried the river proper which was right next to my campsite. Wandered upstream and found an eddy created by a bush and it was a vestibule trout factory. Dozens of every size were feasting there. I caught about 7 in a space about 2 ft square, right next to shore. Saw a covey of 6 dusky grouse BTW.
Rained all night. I'd washed some clothes and left them to dry - not. The other campsites near me filled up. Out came the generators, ATVs, and dirt bikes. Instead of going off to the trails, they just rode around and around and around the campground.
In Montrose now to resupply then off to Grand Mesa where I hope to dry out and try some lakes.
8/11/22: staying near Silverton tonight. Horrible NFS campground that is free but totally overrun with people making campsites wherever they please. As evening falls, the sound of generators, drones, radios and an endless procession of campers in search of sites greets the senses. Yikes, get me outta here.
This is why NFS eventually steps in and enforces "designated sites" when things get too popular and out of control.
I arrived late in the afternoon facing a 23 mile white knuckle mountain pass not knowing whether I would quickly find a campsite at the other side. Yup, I was desperate and will be out of here first thing tomorrow. Headed to Ouray, CO to check some fishing spots.
Spent this morning letting my tent dry out from yet another night of rain. Delores River turned bright orange and red due to silt erosion from previous deluge.
Fortunately, I went upstream and found a clear area to wade. Caught a small cuttie and a rainbow and briefly had on a much bigger bown. River was a bit turbid with a gradient that kept the water on the faster side but still very wadeable. Still no hits on grasshoppers even though they are flying everywhere.
8/10/22: headed to tail waters of McPhee Reservoir which is really the Delores River.
Yesterday's attempt to fish Bear Creek (tributary of Delores) was a bust. 12 miles of hard off roading only to find road blocked due to wildfire fire damage from last year.
Torrential downpour during the night, sounded like a jet engine on my tent. Water filter barely working so I need to buy a new one.
My head is still swimming with memories of Brian's wedding 💑
Epilog: tail waters below
McPhee Reservoir was a bust. I fished for a couple of hours about a half mile from the dam but the water was low and slow. There were some rises and I had 2 strikes but no fish. The access road stayed about 500 yards from the river making it a major chore. Saw peregrine falcons fighting at a cliff face.
I plan to campnear Rico, CO tonight.
8/9/22. Camped at a free NFS site on the banks of West branch of Delores River about 10 miles south of Dunton.
Smallish river, quite shallow which made for easy wading. Caught about 10 trout over 2 days. Rainbows. Browns and brookies. I had a rare chance to fish at dusk because rivers are miles from nearest campsite and they cannot be reserved. Bugs came out and trout were much more likely to hit on dry flies.
Headed a little North of Stoner, CO tonight to fish the main branch of Delores river. Weather has been ideal so far.
The wedding day has at long last arrived. Bride and groom were up at dawn to take pictures against sunrise.
Weather is forecast is favorable but has varied greatly over the past few days.
All is in readiness: tents, tables, caterer guests. The Forest Service road is classic Colorado; 4-wheel drive recommended. For certain a very bumpy ride b
The venue is a remote mountain ski lodge at 11,000 ft with a pond and right at the base of soaring, jagged 13,000 ft peaks. The lodge is a quixotic aggregation of different owners over the years. Doors are about 5 inches thick, requiring a hefty pull to open. The kitchen is very modern with double ovens, huge fridge, dishwasher etc.
Each room has its own unique character, some having stained glass or round or Cathedral windows. Ultra modern bathroom with fancy shower head and smooth slate 24x10 inch tiles.
Ruh roh...lost power. No water, no flush, no internet. Weather has been letter perfect all morning. Hoping it stays that way.
Power was restored about 2 hours before game time. Although the weather had been glorious all morning predictably, afternoon thunder clouds gathered and a light rain set it. Amazingly, just a few minutes before Lindsay, accompanied by her dad, started down the aisle the sun came out and the day was saved! In fact, no more rain for the rest of the day.
The reception was elegant with four course menu that included Elk.8/2/22 camped at Five Points near the Arkansas River last night. Steady rain began just after I got the tent up. Turned the river to chocolate milkshake but it's very pretty nonetheless. Whitewater heaven here with kayakers and rafts galore. Narrow canyons that were supposed to have big horn sheep but I didn't see any. Headed to Montrose now to connect with Paula and Ben.
COVID test yesterday was negative. Whoot!
