Dusky Camp Aug 31 2023

Brian and I are headed to a camp west of Spring Creek Rd https://www.gaiagps.com/public/nQ8LwamCZtQzXSVrEKcuEHli

No cell coverage there.  We will return on 9/2/23

Summer stream conditions

Brian pointed out how the streams in the Bighorns were remarkably full for late August.  Agreed!  The Colorado-Wyoming region had record snowpack during the winter and the wettest June in memory.  Rain came often enough during July and August such that there were no fire restrictions throughout.  In previous years there were restrictions most of the time. 

The rivers and creeks in the Wind River range were full and sometimes too high to fish.  The weather was harsh out there and bugs were understandably plentiful.

Bugs thinned out and the weather was milder in the Beartooth range and nearly ideal in the Northern Bighorns.  Sunny most days, rain was gentle and very little lightning.  A welcome change from earlier in the summer. 

 Given climate change, I'd expect more extremes in the future: hotter days, drier streams and forests, fire restrictions most of the time.   The favorable conditions on this trip were possibly once in a lifetime and I'm grateful to have had the opportunity. 

Magic Fly Aug 30 2023

Once upon a time there was a fine outdoorsman named Brian who hunts, hikes, camps, and does mountaineering.  He rarely fly fishes but made a special trip to Wyoming to join his dad for some serious high-end trout fishing.

He was very successful on the South Tongue River so it was time to try the North.   The river goes through a fairly flat area that is heavily riparian but the place is a caddis factory, serving up gobs of bugs for trout to feast on.  There are numerous hefty trout, over 20 inches in length and weighing 2.5 to 3.5 lbs.

After a an hour or so of trying various caddis imitations but not getting any of the bigs we could plainly see, I handed Brian a magic fly.  He proceeded to catch 7 huge trout that first night and another 4 or 5 the next.  Many of them would have been worthy of taking to a taxidermist but the river was strictly catch and release.

 

These trout (cutthroat and rainbows) were beasts, monsters.  Brian's clever and delicate presentations of the magic fly plus quickly learned fish fighting skills were a wonder to behold.  

For my part I caught 2 beasts last night: rainbow and cuttie.  Far exceeded any expectations I had when planning this trip and made a spectacular grand  finale to a summer of beautiful rivers and creeks.

Strange to pack up my fishing gear but Colorado duskies and pronghorn antelope await. Brian and I pulled up stakes this morning leaving the Bighorns behind.  I'm now in Kremmling,  CO in a favorite campsite on Spring Creek Rd.  Brian will join me tomorrow. 

adventures with Brian Aug 28 2003

Brian and I fished the South Tongue River on Saturday.   Beautiful weather and gorgeous stream.  Brian caught 5 browns, I got 3.

Brian has been intensively practicing archery for the upcoming antelope hunt.

  We fished the North Tongue River where the big fish live.  I got a fat rainbow.

Brian caught a really  nice cuttie then caught Mr. Big who was easily 3 lbs and very wary of fly choice.  Epic fight but Mr. Big took the line into some branches and escaped.

Yesterday we went on an overlanding adventure to Trout Creek. Super rough 4WD  trail but Brian's vehicle was up to the job.  Superb driving!

 

The creek lived up to its name.  Brian caught 7 and I got 4.

We also bushwhacked down to a canyon where the North Tongue River flows.  Water looked good but no fish.

 One more day in the Bighorns and then we headed to Kremmling,  Colorado for pronghorn and duskies  .

hot shower! Aug 23 2023

My brother Alan had planned to join me and my son Brian for 19 days of fly fishing, hiking etc. but health issues with Al's daughter came up.

He was supposed to fly to Sheridan WY last night, stay the night in a hotel and meet us in the morning but he had to cancel the flight.  That left a nonrefundable hotel room to otherwise,  go to waste so I pounced on the opportunity to have my first hot shower 7 weeks.  Ahhhhhhh! So good.  It rained like crazy but I had a roof over my head, soft bed, TV etc.

I'm Bach up in the mountains today and spent the afternoon fishing South Fork of Tongue River.   Beautiful Meadow, clear water.  Although other fishermen who were coming out from there told me they didn't get much. I did just fine catching several brown trout on hoppers and nymphs.  Curiously,  no brookies. 

I had a couple of opportunities to target specific fish and catch them - very cool.

During the trip I've lost some weight and it is frankly thrilling that my clothes fit a bit better and that my pot belly is smaller. 

Brian will likely drive up here tomorrow barring a breakthrough for Alan.

Paydirt! Aug 21 2023

All summer, I've been catching tons of smallish trout with just a very few on the larger side.  I asked the fishing gods to get me into a few bigs and they answered!

2 nights ago I fished the North Tongue River in a heavily riparian section completely surrounded by 10 ft high bushes.  Cattle have carved out myriad paths which resembles a labyrinth.   Once you go in, will you be able to find your way out?

I happened upon a large bend in the river where a fast riffle fed into a deep slow turn.  I spied a huge trout on the opposite bank, hiding under some branches but actively feeding.   For nearly an hour I tried all manner of nymphs and dries. Each time my heart pounding with hopes he'd take one.   Nothing. 

Presently, a few other bigs started rising and after several changes of tactics one of the casually rose up to meet my fly opened his gaping mouth and chomped on it.  Fish on!  It was at least 15 inches and despite not having a net with me I landed him.

I returned to pursuing Mr Big but he still wouldn't play ball.  Yet another of his buddies came by and eventually sucked down a dry fly I presented to him.  For a few very long seconds he seemed to be frozen in space, beautiful colors shimmering in the water.  Clearly, a cuttie and a beast!  Landed him too.

Last night I went 5-6 miles upstream on the same river to where it narrowed to a small creek.  Found a spot where water spilled over a log creating a mini waterfall and a small pool.  I could see a very large trout just chilling at the bottom.   For 90 minutes I tried every technique I knew to get his interest and although he'd occasionally come to the surface for some bug, just to show off his girth, he wouldn't bite my line.

A guy came by who wanted to disperse camp there but was content to let me finish fishing.  We gabbed for a few minutes as I finally left the pool telling him there was a really nice fish for him to go after. 

 I stepped up to another pool, very much like the first, log, waterfall, pool.  I launched a fly into it from about 30 ft away and pow!  A  really nice cuttie (see pics above) slammed it.  I set the hook and he took off like a rocket, first heading upstream but then turning around at the waterfall and racing downstream right past me.  The camper, Patrick, was yelling that this was a great fish. It's one of the few times I've ever had to start scrambling over rocks to keep up with a fish.  Seen it happen on videos but never to me.

Patrick fetched a net from his truck and quickly waded onto the water to net the cuttie.   An act of generosity I thanked him profusely for.  Who would have thought a such a prize would be in such a small pool?!

 I shared some favorite Hot spots with Patrick who was already getting out his fly rod to try the creek himself.     Awesome!!

 

Black Mountain Aug 19 2023

I've been trying to get some modest hiking in most days of late but today, I set a bigger target: Black Mountain Fire tower trail.  It's only 1.5 miles but has and elevation gain of about 700 ft.  Trailhead is at the end of as gnarly forest Service road with deep ruts, big rocks, etc.  It starts at 8,800 ft and tops out at 9,500 ft.  So, if you're not acclimated to the altitude it would be super difficult. 

wildfire smoke cut visibility to about 30% of ideal but it was stunning nonetheless.   I imagine you could see a hundred miles to the eastern Praries on a good day.  Anyway, I did the climb in about an hour whereas Brian could do it in half that, if he took his time.

Went to The little Bighorn battlefield yesterday.   97 degrees but with a strong wind that made it feel like 96 degrees- darned hot.  Gravestones are scattered here and there where soldiers fell and there is a more traditional military graveyard that includes a surprising number of "his wife" markers and not a few children. 

The area is grassy but but lacking trees or even bushes.  No rock outcroppings or other structures to take cover.  Just open.  1,500 Indians vs. about 400 US Cavalry.  "Custer's Last Stand" is barely mentioned, the credit being more broadly shared amongst the many participants.   Last Stand Hill for example, where Custer died doesn't bear his name.  It was intriguing to actually been at the place I've always heard so much about. 

Will explore more of the North Tongue River today.

haystacks Aug 18 2023

Vast amounts of labor have apparently been put to thinning and removing dead trees.  During the summers crews cut up the trees they've felled and create "haystacks" which are then burnt during the winters. I've seen the results of these efforts just about everywhere I've been in WY.   In Colorado I was told this was an effort to slow the progress of pine beetle devastation but I'm not sure that's the rationale here. 

 The Bighorn Forests are healthy and green but in the Wind River Mountains pine beetle damage was widespread.   Worst site I've yet seen was  Brooks Lake which looked about 80% dead trees with only limited haystack activity. 

Headed to Little Bighorn battlefield and maybe scout some creeks on the eastern side of the Bighorns. 

Present campsite 

More WY signage:

new campsite Aug 17 2023

Found a slightly better campsite yesterday, spent the night there and then went and got my place marker tent this AM.  It's a little more private than the other one and bigger.  Though I've done a lot of exploring,  I've yet to be wowed by any campsites I've seen. 

Went on a hike yesterday to finally try the North Tongue River. 

The "trail" on the map is little more than where cattle walk but you can easily see geographic details (e.g. hills, ridges etc.) To understand where you are.  It's about a 1.5 mile hike down to the river.  Very hot day but it got hazy like crazy from wildfire smoke - not sure from where but there's nothing on my wildfire map.  Canada?

When I got down to the river it was pulverized by thousands of footprints of cattle and cowpies everywhere of course.  My annoyance with the hypocrisy regarding conservation continues to mount when I see all kinds of restrictions put on humans (e.g. where you can camp, hike etc.) While allowing cattle to massively trample and eat vegetation all while pooping and peeing right next to or even in rivers and streams.  Imagine the ecoli levels?

  Plenty of water in the river but turbidity was much higher than other streams in the area.  Only caught one small brookie and got one other strike.  Will test other parts of North Tongue River as it's supposed to be the premier stream up here.

WY signs continue to amuse:

Camping is open May to September so long as you don't camp?

Very hot today 80 degrees which feels like 95 in the sun.  Grateful to have this stretch of warm and dry weather however.  

Will visit Steamboat Point today and return to my new campsite tonight. 

Burgess Junction WY Aug 14 2023

Arrived in Burgess Junction about 3 days ago and have been exploring the northern portion of the Bighorns.   

Weather has been sunny but temps range from 34 yesterday to over 80 today.  

Finding some good fishing up here ranging from small brooks to medium rivers.  Saw some very big trout at Twin Lakes Picnic area near Sawmill lake but didn't catch them.  Saw many inBig Goose Creek but only got two little brookies. 

zoom in on this pic And you'll see several brookies 

Shutts Flats has Tongue River South Fork and looks superb.

Wyoming's highway signs are really odd.  Often they only face in one direction so if you happen to be coming from the opposite way you don't get to read it until you've passed by.  Others have faded so much they are nearly blank. 

Often there are no signs at all at Forest Service Roads,  you just have to know when to turn.  They must love UNIX up here.

Will continue to explore more tomorrow. 

Hike today? Aug 10 2023

Amazingly,  I have one bar of service at my campsite so I checked the forecast and the day looks good.  Rained during the night but that's over.  Good to go.

 time to do some laundry which will dry while I'm out for a hike. Following the West Ten Sleep Creek from the trailhead at West Ten Sleep Lake.

While doing the laundry I heard some booms from out in the Beartooth Basin.   No worries,  the weather systems here seem to move towards the Basin not towards me.

The booms became more frequent and I could see some ominous dark clouds headed my way.  No way!  I frantically finished the laundry as the winds began to pick up and first drops were falling.   I didn't see any lighting but I heard plenty of thunder.  Got the tent stowed into the Taco as the rain came pouring down.

Writing this on a hillside that has service about a half mile from my campsite.  Sun is streaming in from the East while the storm is coming from the West. 

10 minutes later,  the storm is now far in the East.  And you thought CT weather was hard to predict!

Well, I'm off for my hike after all - if the weather holds.

Ten Sleep WY Aug 9 2023

Camped near Ten Sleep Canyon. Sunny as I drove across The Great Beartooth Basin but it started raining up in the nountains.  Next day 45 degrees and intermittent hail and rain.  Today, sunny and 70.

Doing a lot of scouting.   West Ten Sleep Creek looks very promising as does Clear Creek (limited access however).  Campgrounds are generally full and dispersed camping is also mostly occupied. 

It's nice to not have to worry about grizzlies!  Will probably start doing some fishing once I've scouted the lower half of Bighorns some more. 

Bighorns Bound Aug 7 2023

42 degrees this AMat my campsite in the Beartooth Mountains.  Partly sunny instead of raining!  I was able to fish 5 hours yesterday on the Clark's Fork despite a couple of thunder showers.  Caught small brookies and a few rainbows but the word got out amongst the trout that to escape a barbless hook, run right at the fisherman making the line go slack.

I finally had a substantial rainbow on my line but he got off by using that trick.

Leaving grizzly country for now.  Never saw one BTW.  I did hear wolves howling at the river yesterday so I waited a bit until they stopped.   Finally saw Sandhill cranes which I've heard out West for years but never saw until now.

The Beartooths are truly beautiful.  

 I'm headed to Ten Sleep Canyon but have no definite idea of where I will stay.

peanut butter blues Aug 5 2023

 Day 3 of the forecasted 7 days of rain.  The weather was iffy yesterday morning so I hiked up the upper Crandall Creek where bigger cutthroat are reputed to live.  Ran into some Forestry people who were just finishing a research trip on that same trail.  They said they'd just seen fresh grizzly tracks exactly where I planned to go.  Doh!

The creek size should have been just about perfect for me but thus is what I found:

The floods from kast year and huge snowpack this year completely blew out the creek.  It's now about a 200ft wide bed of gravel strewn with trees, ripped from the raging waters.

Nonetheless,  there were pockets here and there and many of them held small trout.   I caught a bunch of brookies,  a rainbow, and some cutties including a 12 inches who was hiding under a fallen tree in the water.  I saw bear scat but no grizzly tracks.

Today, I returned to fish the lower Crandall Creek but with all the rain, it was the color of peanut butter.   I traveled upstream on the Clark's Fork hoping it might be clearer and it was.  Caught a bunch of brookies and 3 rainbows.   Got rained from a storm in the East while simultaneously getting baked by sunny skies in the west.

I'll try the lower Crandall Creek tomorrow  and the probably head for the Bighorns on Monday.    I'm writing this from way up on a mountain pass where you can look down at snowfields and the tops of clouds. 

Beartooth Mountains August 3 2023

Fished part of Clark's Fork River yesterday.   Clear, cold, pristine water with occasional beautiful pools.

Caught 10 small brookies and 2 rainbows.  I went in search of access to Crandall Creek  but found a locked gate on one road and the other looked too rough a b d sketchy even for my Taco.

So I headed back to my campsite to think it over and did some laundry.  As I hung it out on the line, the clouds that had been threatening finally let out a moderate and steady rain, far more tolerable than the violent thunderstorms of last week.

  I need groceries and gas so I'm headed toward Cody.  Just got this cell connection on Dead Indian Hill (yes, that's what it's really called).  Forecast for the entire region is rain for the next 7 days.😕  that means the creeks and rivers will turn brown and likely flood.  

I will likely head back to Lilly Lake and explore some of the lakes in the Beartooth Wilderness on Rt 212. Likely, no cell service up there so next update not likely for 4 days.  Dunno how I'm going to dry my laundry.  Seriously bummed right now.  

Skunk City July 31 2023

Turns out,  there's very little public access to the Wind River but  I found 2 places.  More of a creek than a river and the only strike I had failed because I once again did not tie the clinch knot properly.  I thought I could get away without using my "cheaters" but I've hopefully learned my lesson now.

I also tried a little creek I'd  researched about 10 miles into backcountry on a FSR.  Pristine meadows, road was in excellent condition.  Nobody around.  The Creek turned out to be exactly what I'd hoped for; twisty, full of emerald green pools.  Alas, no fish.

I headed back to Brooks Lake for one last night, congratulating myself on how I'd managed to dodge various thunderstorms that had come through the area.  In fact, one was rolling up on the lake as I drove up the access road.  Came around a corner to find the road had been washed out in one of the storms and they closed it.  Now I had to find a dispersed campsite,  it was getting dark and the new storm was about to break.

I tried one that had a short downhill entrance that looked muddy and ominously devoid of tire tracks.  Mud us like Kryptonite for any 4WD and as I started down the Taco just slid like it was on ice.  At the bottom I quickly turned around knowing that the coming rain would only make things worse.  

Fortunately,  the Taco has several features to deal with such conditions and I was able to get out mostly by keeping at least one wheel on grass. Phew!

I found a reasonably level grassy spot just down the road and set up the ten moments before the rain started.  It was an epic cloud burst, pummeling my tent with scary force.  No violent winds and lightning like my previous 2 nights at the Lake.  Overall, Brooks Lake was harsh. Bear sightings in the campground each night, heavy thunderstorms. 

My tent is still wet but I'm done with Brooks Lake.   I had a mind to check out Wiggins Fork north of Dubois but I ran into some guys that said the gradient is steep making the water very fast.  Not good. 

I'm headed for the Beartooth Mountains now in hopes of trying Crandall Creek and the Clark Fork River.  I'm in Yellowstone Park now and will go north to the Shoshone NF.  Will give an update as cell service permits.